If you've invested in a quality live bait tank, you want it to last. The good news is that keeping your tank in top condition doesn't take much effort — just a quick flush after every trip. We've seen tanks that are still going strong after ten years of heavy use, and the owners all have one thing in common: they take five minutes to rinse out their gear before packing up.
Here's everything you need to know about maintaining your live bait tank.
Why Flushing Matters
Saltwater is tough on everything. When it sits in your tank between trips, here's what happens:
Salt Crystal Buildup
As the water evaporates, it leaves salt crystals behind. These build up in your pump, fittings, and valve components. Over time, this can restrict water flow, jam moving parts, and eventually cause pump failure. We've seen pumps that looked fine on the outside but were completely clogged internally — all from skipping the rinse.
Corrosion
Even marine-grade aluminium needs care. While our tanks are built to handle saltwater, leaving it sitting for days or weeks accelerates wear on seals, hose clamps, and electrical connections. The pump motor is particularly vulnerable.
Bacterial Growth
That funky smell when you open your tank after a few weeks? That's bacteria thriving in the leftover organic matter — fish scales, blood, bait residue. Not only is it unpleasant, but it can affect the health of your bait on future trips. Stressed or dying bait doesn't catch fish.
Blocked Drains and Fittings
Fish scales, small bits of bait, and general debris accumulate in drain holes, strainers, and the pump intake. A quick flush clears all this out before it becomes a problem.
Step-by-Step Flush Process
This whole process takes about five minutes. Do it while you're washing down the boat and it becomes second nature.
Step 1: Drain the Tank Completely
Pull the drain plug and let all the saltwater empty out. Our tanks have angled internal corners specifically so water doesn't pool in the corners — but give it a tilt anyway to make sure you get everything out. If you've had fish in the tank, you might see some scales and debris come out with the water. That's exactly what you want.
Step 2: Fresh Water Rinse
This is the important bit. Run fresh water through the entire system for 2-3 minutes. You want to flush:
- The main tank body — get water into all the corners
- The inlet fitting where the pump feeds in
- The outlet and drain fittings
- The overflow if your tank has one
- Inside the lid and around the hinges
If you've got a hose with decent pressure, even better. You're trying to physically wash away salt and debris, not just wet things down.
Step 3: Run the Pump
With some fresh water in the tank, run the pump for a minute or two. This flushes saltwater out of the pump impeller, the internal hoses, and the inlet strainer. You'll probably see cloudy water coming through at first — that's the salt and residue clearing out.
Step 4: Clean the Strainer
While you're at it, pull out the pump strainer and give it a rinse. Check for any debris caught in the mesh. A blocked strainer makes your pump work harder and can cause overheating. Takes ten seconds and saves you money on replacement pumps.
Step 5: Final Drain and Dry
Drain the tank completely one more time. Here's the key bit that people miss: leave the drain plug out while the tank is stored. This lets air circulate and prevents moisture buildup, mould, and that stale smell.
Step 6: Quick Wipe Down
Give the exterior a wipe with fresh water to remove salt spray. Pay attention to the hinges, latches, and any stainless steel fittings. This keeps everything looking good and operating smoothly.
Pro Tips From the Workshop
We've been building these tanks for years, and here's what we've learned from customers who get the most life out of their gear:
Vinegar Rinse for Heavy Use
Had a big day with lots of bait and fish blood? Add a cup of white vinegar to a few litres of water and slosh it around the tank. The mild acid breaks down fish oils and organic residue that plain water misses. Rinse with fresh water afterwards.
Check Your Hoses Annually
The flexi hoses that connect your pump to the tank are UV-stable and built to last, but check them at the start of each season. Look for cracks, hardening, or loose connections at the hose clamps. Replacing a $20 hose is better than dealing with a flooded bilge.
Store Smart
If you're putting the boat away for winter, make sure the tank is completely dry. Leave the lid slightly open for ventilation. Some customers remove the pump and store it separately — not essential, but it doesn't hurt.
Test Before the Big Trip
The morning of a charter or tournament is not the time to discover your pump isn't working. Run the system for a few minutes a day or two before any important trip.
The Bottom Line
Five minutes of maintenance after each trip. That's all it takes. Your Striker Marine live bait tank is built to last — give it basic care and it'll keep your bait swimming happily for years to come.
Got questions about maintenance or need replacement parts? Get in touch — we're always happy to help.